There Are Places I Remember

I’m a bit hungry, tired, and sore in that order but I finished my first day on the Camino.  It far surpassed my expectations! Last night I found my way to the point where the Camino left Irun. I was glad this morning I had done so. I started early just as the sun was beginning to come up. I’m finding that navigating using the way markers is far more difficult in a town than on the paths.

I elected to do the “alpinist” route option  a few kilometers outside of Irun. It was billed as significantly steeper and more challenging but also more beautiful. It entailed climbing straight up (and I mean, the Spanish skipped ever learning about switchbacks) to the ridgeline of the mountains between Irun and San Sebastián. I was completely alone. It was an amazing experience. I will add a couple photos.

Got into San Sebastián fairly early in the afternoon and found my hostel.

The people along the way are so warm, kind and helpful. Sometimes it is hard to find the path and if you ask they will walk with you to the next way mark if they are afraid you won’t understand. So many great experiences make the shoulders ache a little less.

Well, I guess it is official now. I have my credential and begin walking tomorrow.  Every step along the way seems quite momentous at this point. Finding the first Albergues in Irun to get my credential was the first step. I think here on the Northern route Americans are a bit of an oddity. Of the 20 or so queued up to either get a bed for the night or get the credential, I was the only one with English as a first language. I understood none of the conversation around me and no one was particularly interested in whether I ever figured it all out. I did though and have the credential to prove it.

The place I am staying is right on the Camino route out of town. I plan to be up early before it gets too hot and start tomorrow’s first day – 27 kilometers and reportedly the most physically rigorous of all.

I am admittedly nervous. All my fellow pilgrims look years younger and travel tested. I look forward to the morning, however, as I know I will become stronger and more comfortable with the process each day- at least, that is the plan.

I say “for now” because this is definitely a place I wish to return. I barely scratched the surface of this beautiful city. What I know is that it is rich with history, tradition, wonderful food, beautiful works of art, and the warm and proud people of Catalan.
I sent my “Barcelona clothes” home today (I forgot how much time a stop in the post office can take even in a cosmopolitan city like this. Stand in line, get a box and a label, pay for those. Take a number and wait in line to post it. There were three tellers and 23 ahead of me 😊.
I have time for just a couple more things on my list before my train heads for Irun and the start of my Camino on the 16th. I am going to the Picasso museum a convenient two doors up the street from my Airbnb apartment and then 9 PM dinner at what many rank as the #1 restaurant in Barcelona. I’ve had my reservation for three months!

Today was Gaudi day! Unbelievable. The Sagrada Familia is the amazing and far from finished Gaudi masterpiece. It is now officially a Basilica after the visit of the Pope and consecration of the church 5 years ago. It is like nothing I’ve ever seen.

Barcelona is an amazing and vibrant city rich in history. It is proudly Catalan and not Spanish with its own language and heritage. There are only 1.4 million people who live in Barcelona and host 8 million visitors each year. Yesterday’s highlight had to be the tapas tour. My eight companions for the evening were diverse with interesting backgrounds and stories. Our host, recently graduated from university, was so much fun. It was decidedly un-touristy and the food rivaled the best restaurants in anywhere; three restaurants; 5 hours and I have no idea how many dishes and bottles of wine consumed. I will need the Camino to walk off Barcelona!

Enjoying the Fourth of July holiday and coming to the reality that the trip is less than a week away. There are still a few things to do but the backpack is packed and ready to go. There will be no break from the heat the first few days in Barcelona while I see the city and get adjusted to the time change and stumbling along with my Spanish.
I will arrive in Irun, the starting point for my Camino on the 15th. It will be good to move from planning to doing!

I will be leaving on my trip in less than three weeks now.  Everything is pretty well organized and, I think, ready to go.  I met today with a group of people who have recently walked the Camino or are, like me,  planning to in the near future.  It was good to hear their tips and see their enthusiasm.  It is customary for those who have walked to give a shell to those embarking on the journey.  The shell comes with a blessing and best wishes.  It was a nice experience.