There Are Places I Remember

I still find it hard to understand how I could be so blessed and fortunate. What brings together such seemingly unconnected events across time and space that result in such good fortune?

Lali picked me up yesterday in Oviedo and brought me to her lovely home in Gijon. Lali is a wonderfully kind and generous (and truly delightful) person. We are able to communicate well and are similar in many respects; we are mothers, professionals, have a love of travel, and appreciate food and wine. Lali has traveled  extensively having been to the U.S. to work in a lab at UCSD. She has seen more of the U.S. than I have!  She is my self-appointed nurse.  Right now I am waiting in an orthopedic and physical therapy clinic (sports medicine-type) in Gijon in hope of getting some means to enable me to walk short distances while my leg is healing.  I am hoping for a walking soft cast or boot but even crutches would be helpful.

They will be able to see me in about 30 minutes. Lali will interpret on my behalf.

My hope is to be on my way again in a couple of days traveling by bus, making my way to Santiago. I only want to travel short distances between the towns still being able to appreciate the scenes, the people, the tastes, the feeling of the Camino.

I hope to catch up with Brigitte and others I have met along the Way and see them again in Santiago.

I am so grateful to Nancy for reaching out to Lali on my behalf; and to Lali for being so gracious.

Yesterday I did take a short walk (very gingerly) and toured the cathedral in Oviedo. Oviedo is the city where the original pilgrimages to Santiago began.  There is even a special rate to take the audio tour if you have your Camino credential. It is very beautiful and has many important and significant relics. It is considered one of the three most beautiful and revered cathedrals in Spain.

I appreciate your thoughts and support.

The experience of “forced” vulnerability and being not in control has never been high on my list of the situations I want to be in. The miraculous thing is though, that when it happens – and only then – do you have the opportunity to fully realize the true kindness and generosity of others and really understand this thing called humanity.
I had a friend in high school named Mike. Mike was a big, very nice guy with a great smile and a little different way about him than everyone else. I always liked Mike; he lived not far down the street from me. I have not seen him since high school (maybe at an early reunion – but suffice it to say, its been a very long time).  Fast forward 40+ years and I get a message from him on Facebook asking if I am his old friend from high school. I responded and we have chatted back and forth on Facebook. He is a professor of Virology at UC Irvine and is married to a woman named Nancy whom I have not met.
Nancy has walked the Camino and has been following my blog. She had commented on the blog and contacted me through the blog when she learned about my injury.

She has a friend (Spanish) who teaches biochemistry at the University here in Oviedo. Her name is Lali. Nancy contacted her and told her of my situation. She is picking me up here Monday and taking me to her home until I have recovered sufficiently to move on! She has a home near here in Gijon Spain. She, her daughter and son-in-law who both just graduated from architecture school speak English and will help me with doctors etc if still needed on Monday.

I am overwhelmed by the kindness I have been shown and the seeming serendipity of how this has come together in this big world to help me in this very personal way. From my walking companion of one day, Brigitte, with her angel companions and belief that angels walk the earth; to the man at the bus station in Ribdasella who would appear every time a bus arrived to shake his head to say “not this one” and find me in the crowd to nod to me when it was time to get on and off and saw me through a transfer and all the way to Oviedo without ever saying a word; to Alfredo, my Spanish friend who explained to me so clearly in his “second” language how the universe teaches us what we need to know and that the Camino is life; and  to Nancy and her friend Lali, who have walked the Camino together……
I feel very blessed and humbled. Thank you all so much.

Thursday was my 15 th day on the Camino and my walk took me from Colombres to Llanes where I had reserved a room in the youth hostel. Though forecasted to be 100% chance of rain all day, the weather forecasters are the same the world over, and they weren’t quite right. By late morning the rain stopped.  I was pleased I had decided to decline the suggestion of some women I had met to take the bus to Llanes.  Instead I walked, taking the longer, more beautiful coastal route.

In the youth hostel I met a Greman woman from Munich named Brigitte. We immediately struck up a conversation (she wanted to work on her English that, quite honestly, needed little work). We had a nice dinner and explored Llanes a bit and agreed to walk on to Ribdasella together early the next day. It would be her first day on the Camino having come to Llanes by bus.  She only had enough vacation to begin the Camino there and hope to finish in Santiago.  Like so many I have met, it is not their first Camino.  Many are doing partial Caminos with plans to maybe finish later.

Walking to Ribdasella was again rainy much of the day – the last forecasted day of rain in the next several days.  It is good because the hostel in Ribdasella had no washer or dryer and it was not a day things would dry on the line.  So that brings us to the real message of this post and a most difficult one for me to write.

Yesterday with about 10 kilometers to go approaching Ribdasella I began to experience acute pain in the lower part of my left shin.  I didn’t do anything acutely like a fall or a twist or the rolling of an ankle  it just began to hurt with each step and then began to show bruising and redness.  I honestly wasn’t sure I could walk the rest of the way but – well, there isn’t much choice on a dirt (mud) footpath along the Atlantic Coast.  I literally hobbled into Ribdasella and found the hostel. Brigitte went to the pharmacy for me and got a wrap and ice packs.  I iced and elevated it for a couple hours but the truth of it was beginning to sink in. I could not bear weight on it and, based on my limited knowledge and Google, I came to the conclusion I am probably dealing with a stress fracture of my tibia and likely the end of my Camino.

i think yesterday I was largely in denial and I am still holding out a little bit of hope that this is some kind of strain or sprain of a ligament but I am not optimistic.  I made the decision to take the  bus today to Oviedo.  I found an Airbnb in the center of Oviedo that is inexpensive ($30/night) but I have my own room and use of the kitchen and bath. Carmen (the hostess) is unbelievably nice though neither of us speaks the others language. We use Google translator and get by.

A man here at the house offered to take me in his car to the urgent care clinic where I hoped to get some confirmatory diagnosis by X-ray one way or another. It turned out that they have no X-ray at the clinic and I would have to go to the hospital for that. I saw the clinic doctor and he didn’t think it was fractured but I’m not sure he understood I was concerned about a stress fracture. He gave me a prescription for an NSAID and told me to ice and elevate it.  I’m doing that now.

The Camino offers so much.  I know it is about something more important than finishing in a certain place on a certain day.  This is just part of my Camino and it brings its own lessons. I now have a very different sense of what it is like to need medical attention somewhere where you cannot communicate and you can’t understand what the people caring for you are saying to each other or to you.  It is very hard and such a helpless and totally dependent feeling. As some of you know, helplessness and dependence are not my strong suits. Maybe this is just part of what I am to learn.

This is how the Camino works: I met my friend Alfredo, a banker from Murcia Spain when I called out to him that he had missed a way mark and was headed off the Way.  He thanked me and we talked for many miles and over several days.  His English was very good and he helped me with my Spanish and he talked about the philosophy of the Way from a Spanish pilgrim’s perspective and about his life and thoughts.

He showed me much of the food and drink traditions and taught me to pour cider from high above the glass. He gave me his phone number in case I needed it in Spain. Today at the clinic I used that number and Alfredo talked with me and the doctor and translated for us both. He assured the doctor I could be trusted to go to the ATM to get the money to pay for my visit. I wouldn’t run away.  After, he sent me a txt to remind me this is all just part of my Camino. It is what is given to me by God or the Universe or whatever you believe. It isn’t to be judged; just experienced. Maybe for me, it means I come back someday. Maybe it just means I accept with humility my fallibility and that I make the most of the new path in front of me.

I resumed my pilgrim travel yesterday with a beautiful sunny, 80 degree walk – about 18 miles- from my Airbnb to the albergue in Comillas. I fortunately felt strong and well rested (and fed) and made good time. The albergue there strictly limits its capacity at 20 and I was # 17 in the line of

backpacks. I think I arrived around 1:30 and it opened at 3. I tend to just walk straight through the  day with maybe one stop for tea. I’m not the world’s fastest walker and I tend to take a few photos? but I usually just stop once for a cup of tea. As I’ve said, we tend to be creatures of habit as humans and I like to be completely ready to go when I go to sleep (usually sleeping in the clothes for the next day). Every day one of my two options for shirts and shorts gets washed and dried.

Now about today – 20 miles and it rained non stop. Someone suggested an umbrella to me-I am so thankful!  It is fairly warm (around  70 on rainy days) but up until now drizzle or mist would have been how I characterized the precipitation. Today it flat out rained. I had gotten a plastic poncho in anticipation of the forecasted rain. It worked fairly well in combination with my umbrella until I decided to try to remove my windbreaker – no value as too warm and not waterproof – I tried to pull this contortionist maneuver off without taking my backpack or poncho off. I completely destroyed my poncho but they are plentiful here and a buck fifty. I’ve already replaced it as the forecast for tomorrow is the same.

The albergue here has no washer, no dryer and no blankets. It may be a challenging night!

The most wonderful thing about this little town – that has really no other option for sleeping – does have a most amazing thing…..a delicious Mexican restaurant. I am there now (they have wifi; the albergue does not) and eating a big bowl of the most delicious Mexican chicken soup I have ever tasted and drinking a Modelo!  Can you believe it?? My $7 dinner.

Tomorrow night I reserved a room in a youth hostel in a town about 16 miles from here. It is in a converted train station and is the accomodation part of an adventure trip business. They have washers and dryers (and wifi) and by tomorrow night I can’t leave that to chance. It is curious how the mind begins to operate according to the norms and culture of your experience. This hostel charges $16 per night in high season (now) and after spending $5 most nights for a bed, it feels “extravagant”.

I didn’t have my camera or phone out much today given the weather. I’ll see what is on there and add if I see something. The blue sky pics are yesterday.

I know that there are parts of this that “should” be unpleasant – walking in a down pour, being wet, feet hurting, not being able to communicate at all effectively, showers and bunks shared with strangers – who quite often snore and don’t feel the need to shower but, honestly, I am having the most incredible time. Every aspect is just part and parcel to this amazing whole. The chance to be quiet, to take all the time in thc world, to make decisions realizing if they are “wrong” so what – it is both a very freeing experience and has this enormous aspect of faith and trust. My day consists of free thinking, contemplation, memories and dreams but always keeping an awareness of the present and the way-marks of the Camino. You turn when they say turn and proceed when they indicate doing so. When you don’t see one for awhile you trust that it means to stay the course. One seems to always appear when you are feeling uncertain or just need a little reassurance and peace of mind. I find myself saying “gracias” out loud at times when one appears just as I realize I haven’t seen one for awhile. I don’t question them – I don’t doubt. And, if you are uncertain in the least, the first Spanish man, woman or child will eagerly show you the “way” even walking along with you. I know words can’t do it justice and I know everyone’s experience and comfort zone is different. For me, it seems impossible it has been 2 weeks already. It is passing much too quickly.

So, for those of you who know me well, it is atypical for me to go this long without talking extensively about food. I do like food!  And, I must say, Spain has this food thing figured out in many respects but it takes a little getting used to

and I have had to spend some time learning my way around the gastronomical aspects of this adventure.

There are “bars” in Spain that open relatively early around 8 am and are open most of the day.  They serve coffee, tea, wine, beer etc and various small plates  For breakfast that is usually savory and/or sweet but they tend to like their croissants and cakes in the morning or the ubiquitous tortilla which is a large frittata type thing makes of eggs and potatoes and maybe another ingredients of which you are served a wedge with bread. The breakfast (an item and beverage) is about $2.50.

Other times of the day the bars serve small sandwiches etc that are pre-made and in cases or open on top of the bar along with other small items skewered with a toothpick.  You choose what you want and pay based on your toothpicks that remain at the end. These are called pinxtos (or tapas or raciones – small distinctions between them) but are each usually 1-1.50 euro. You can just about use euro and dollar interchangeably these days which makes it a great time to travel in Europe.

Restaurants serve lunch and dinner. Lunch is typically between 1-3 and dinner 8:30-11.  At both times of day most restaurants serve either ala carte or the three course meal of the day (or evening).  They include a choice of first course, second course, and dessert and each category has many options. They are one fixed price and usually cost between $10 and $14 depending on whether you are in a tourist area or not. Today in Santillana Del Mar, a beautifully restored midieval town with a large draw for tourists, I had lunch at the #1 restaurant on Trip Advisor. It was amazing! I had a three course lunch of salad, grilled sea bass with clams, and dessert, wine, and bread (wine and bread are included in the price) for $14.00.

Not every day on the Camino is a great food day. Some Albergues are off the beaten path or hours are too restrictive or the daily required mileage is such that a quick bar or grocery stop will have to suffice.  However when time and circumstances permit it can be quite a treat to enjoy a meal here. Table wine and tap beer is excellent, cheap and plentiful.  It is great to get wonderful tea with steamed milk for a euro.

Now, I’m going to post some food pictures that may end up who knows where because as you know “adding media” was something I failed to learn when I was viewing my blog lessons on line!

I need to go – my host in this wonderful little agri-pensione near Santillana del Mar where I am enjoying my day of R&R is preparing dinner for me this evening.  If this morning’s breakfast is any indication, I’m in for a treat.

Tomorrow I transform from tourist back to Pilgrim and am actually very much looking forward to resuming my Camino.  My feet are grateful for the rest, however.

This picture on the left  the first glimpse of Laredo from the trail. The one on the right,the walk into Santander

As is the case on much of the Norte it seems, you get up each day in a beach town (on this day it was Santona, just out of Laredo, to begin the day with what the Spanish describe as a “sharp” climb – an apt descriptor!  This was the scene from the path (left) and the trail was steep, narrow, and sandy – hard to get and hold footing. Just as I was telling myself I felt a bit like a goat, these fellows popped up. It really was a trail made more for goats than humans.

The prize at the top was extraordinary!  Beautiful ocean views. I stayed that night in Guemes at this Albergue

but more about that later. The next day was another magnificent walk along the coast. Once completing climbing again up from the village of Guemes past the small beaches with the early morning surfers, the next 10 kilometers or so we’re on a foot path along the Atlantic Ocean about 40 feet above the cliffs down to the ocean below. Corn fields on the left and the roiling Atlantic on the right and complete silence other than the waves crashing and birds. (The pic above)

Saturday ended in Santander, a larger city on the north Spanish Coast.  It was the day of Santander’s annual festival and the city was packed with people celebrating. I had gotten an early start out of Guemes ( the value of not being 25 or 30 and drinking half the night) so got a place in the very centrally located Albergue in Santander. The city is on the ocean with beautiful beaches and a bustling promenade.

I spent the late afternoon and evening just out walking among the party-goers. It was lively, festive and beautiful. One issue on the Camino is that the Albergues close up at 10 PM and lights out at 10:30. Restaurants in Spain don’t even open until 8:30 or more likely 9 and dinner is a drawn out affair unlike stopping in the bar (either stand alone or often the outdoor eating part of what will become a restaurant later in the evening) where you can get tapas, pinxtos, or raciones – all varieties of small plates chosen from a selection lining the top of the bar.  I had read about a restaurant in Santandar I wanted to try.  It had a bar so that part was open so I asked when they would start serving dinner (it was only 7:45 – sign of an American!) the gentleman told me not until 9  PM and besides, they were fully booked for festival. I thanked him and he did the most amazing thing; he motioned me to follow him to the back of the restaurant where he set a place for me, gave me a menu and served me a delicious meal!  Can you believe it??

I titled this “Albergues” because my intention was to talk about them just a bit. I will make it quick.

Albergue de Peregrinos are typically the municipal accomodations for pilgrims traveling the Camino by foot (pie) or bicycle. They are dormitory style and have varying numbers of available beds depending on the season and the town. There are also private Albergues which may provide beds for other travelers but in the Albergues de Perigrinos you must have a Camino credential to be allowed to stay. They are usually 5-10 euro or free except for a donation. Some have washers, some a dryer (always a clothesline). There may be showers separate for men and women or not. Beds are usually bunks (2 or 3 high) or single cots (like beds in a barracks or dorm) with between 8-40 in a room. You get assigned or select a bed space in the order your backpacks are lined up outside the door as you arrive before they open at 3 or 4 in the afternoon. The room/beds are coed. It is first come, first served until full. Some provide overflow on the floor or in tents outside depending on if a city or rural area. A blanket may be available and so far always a pillow and disposable sheet. Some have breakfast and some (like the Monasterio De Zenarruza and the Albergue in Guemes where I stayed last night) also provide communal meals at lunch and/or dinner complete with wine. Again, there is no expected payment. This is how the community supports the pilgrims.

Tonight, night 12 for me, I am taking a day for r and r and am staying in a small (10 room) rural pension tonight and tomorrow night before I resume walking. It was 7 hours walking today (83 degrees) made just a bit longer to find this accomodation that is in a barrio a few kilometers off the Camino. I actually found it on Airbnb and reserved it yesterday. I had decided (and planned in my time) a few times to stay in a hotel or hostel. I think it is good to give the feet a break but I really wasn’t as eager as I thought I would be even after 12 nights though I think my feet will thank me. I must say, now that I am here, this beautiful old (1600’s) house is wonderful – my own room, a big bed, my own shower with shampoo and a hair dryer!!! It is absolutely quiet and the 2 foot stone walls keep it cool despite the day in the mid 80’s today.

Im going to pick a couple of pictures. I have no idea where they will insert in the text and if I can make them make sense.  I can’t seem to get that part of blogging figured out.

Today dawned sunny and bright on the coast and I was happy to get started at first light for what I knew would be a long day.  The usual place to end from my departure point at Solana is Laredo but I had decided that it would be worth another 7 kilometers of walking to be in a quieter town for the night.

The path quickly became rural as it cut inland before later returning to the Atlantic Coast at Laredo.  The scenes of the day felt very familiar as the climate is not unlike the Northwest.  Forests are pine with lots of ferns and the annual rainfall amounts maintain a green landscape. It is steeper and rockier and the expanses of range land larger than is usual at home.  It is not uncommon to encounter sheep, horses, goats, or cows with bells around their neck to enable the farmer/rancher to find them. The family gardens are overflowing with vegetables and trees are laden with lemons, limes, apples and figs.  There are lots of grapes grown in the area and kiwi fruit.

I also found wild mountain blackberries just ripening.  These are the small blackberries I remember picking in the woods as a child; not the large Himalayan variety we see by the roadside at home.  I haven’t see wild mountain blackberries in years and it evoked a flood of childhood memories of my mother taking us picking with our little coffee cans fitted with string handles and getting nettle stings and thorn scratches as we managed enough for a few blackberry pies – well worth the effort. The real beauty in this trip though is that it brought back so many thoughts for me about my mom and I actually had the time, clarity, and lack of distraction to be able to stay with those thoughts and memories for as long as I wanted. This is something I totally had forgotten how to do and how rich and meaningful it can be.

Another moment today was seeing an old woman  cutting the long grass around her house with a scythe.  It turned out she was 80.  She asked if I was going to Santiago.  I replied I was and with my limited Spanish and the help of a Spanish speaking friend I was walking with when I saw her, I learned she was asking that I say a prayer for her in Santiago when I arrived at the Cathedral.  I agreed to do so and she returned to her work and I to my walk but it was really very special.  I have a great photo of her but I took it with my “real” camera so can’t add it to the post.

I was struck today that I have completed a week. Some of you will understand exactly what this feels like as I  liken it to reading a really exceptional book, maybe the best you have ever read only it isn’t someone else’s story or their experience of self discovery, it is my own.  And like the very best of books you suddenly want to force yourself to read more slowly even though you want so much to know what is yet to be revealed. You know you will be sad when it ends and the end will come too quickly.  I had that feeling today about my Camino  I want to slow my pace, savor the details, examine my thoughts, feel my emotions and take my time. The end will come more quickly than I will be ready for.

A last note – while Laredo is a stunning beach, it was as I imagined a bit of an assault to the senses emerging from my day of quiet walking.  I walked through town on the long beachside promenade but was happy to tuck into my Albuergue for the night – an Albuergue with wifi!!

  Today’s walk was beautiful and quite long.

I find that I enjoy staying in th Albergues in the smaller villages better than the bigger towns. I think the younger people have an affinity for the towns (more nightlife etc) whereas the pace and rhythm in the small towns is more pleasant to me after 8-10 hours of walking.

Thankfully the way markers are frequent and obvious and predictable as the days go by. I don’t tend to wonder if I am lost as often. Much of the day today (aside from one less than glorious stretch along the highway) was on paths along the Atlantic coast or through the forests. There were also somewhat fewer and less dramatic elevation gains and steep descents which tend to be harder on the feet and legs.

.It is interesting to have your awareness of your body be so apparent. I will occasionally realize that nothing hurts! That’s a happy moment. It doesn’t always last but for that time it is good. I do feel myself getting stronger especially relative to carrying my back pack. I hardly have an awareness of it anymore until the end of the day approaches.
I will be glad when my feet toughen a bit.
The other thing I am enjoying is learning about this part of Spain. So many of the early explorers came from here. The lore (and lure) of sea is apparent everywhere. The very old buildings – especially the churches- are beautiful. The one today in Castro-Urdiales was magnificent and built in the early part of the 13th century.
Now, about the title of this post: I followed a Camino route today (an official variant) that allowed more time along the sea but when I had gone a good bit of the way there was a sign in Spanish that seemed to indicate that proceeding through a long abandoned mining tunnel was not permitted but my book had mentioned that I would be passing through just such a tunnel. I debated for a couple of seconds during which I thought about backtracking (uh, no way) and I went around the barrier, put on my headlamp, and proceeded. I emerged to the most beautiful seascape and narrow path up from there that deposited me on a grassy track across a field into the town where I am staying tonight. It was magical and I wondered for a moment if I was really walking the Camino or if this was just a dream and I would awaken in Portland. Apparently not.
Tonight’s accomodations are challenging for an old girl! I’m in the middle bed of a three story bunk! Mattress is about 3 inched. I’m having a glass of wine hoping exhaustion will see me through.
I know, it probably sounds awful but it is wonderful – every aspect of it! Like a dream, really.

Let me first say, I have not figured out how to insert the photos so they make sense with the narrative so forgive and just guess where the picture fits in the story!

Yes, I live!  I have been without wifi since July 17 – 4 days. I must admit I had to do a bit of research to determine how long it has been. I have totally lost track of the date and day but the time of day remain relevant because I try to calculate how long I will be walking. Most days that is from 6 or 7 am until 2:30-5 in the afternoon. I must say this is far more rigorous than I had anticipated. Maybe I said that before but it is very much the case.  The paths up and down from the coastal towns to the Camino paths are steep and often rocky. I actually think I prefer the ups to the downs in terms of wear and tear on the body. I follow the way markers and arrows. I have come to trust that just as I think I may be off the Way, a yellow arrow appears to reassure.

Despite my best efforts and preparation I have blisters!  An important part of my developing

Camino ritual involve the morning and evening care of my feet. All in all, I’m doing great!

The last three nights I have stayed at the municipal Albergues Pelligrinos (the pilgrim hostels)  they are free except for a donation, usually 5 Euros ($5).  They have showers, washers and an occasional dryer, and between 20 and 40 (although some are apparently larger) beds – cots or bunks. I am attaching a typical picture taken from my bunk – 8 young men, a young woman and me occupying a room for 10. Mostly the travelers are in their 20’s or 30’s, from some part of Europe but many Spaniards, spending their vacation doing a section of the Camino.  It surprises them to learn I am from the U.S.  and intend to complete the Camino.

The night before last I stayed in the Albergue in Markina  it was Sunday and there was a festival.  Alfredo, a man from Murcia convinced the hospitaller (who presides over the Albergues), to extend the 10 pm curfew so we could go the festival. A group of us went out for “cider” and pinxtos (like tapas but eaten standing at a table outside the bar).  So much fun.

It is interesting how quickly the human creature establishes a routine even when in such foreign surroundings.  I think about all of you often. Sooz, I think I now know where your beloved goats and burros go when they leave this world in Oregon. I have seen them in the woods in Spain high on forested trail happily chewing the vegetation or fat and happy in a lush field. This must be heaven for such creatures.

I have not thought about work but have about all of my friends and co-workers frequently.  I know that as arduous as the days can be (and I am not exaggerating, they are tough – Jan, this would be right up your alley!) it is such an incredible experience; the things I have seen, people I have met, and the time to both think and learn about how I respond to the challenges I have faced has been incredible.  There is nowhere to turn except to yourself when faced with something hard or even scary.

The process of simply moving forward is at times a remarkable thing.

Enough for now  I will select a couple of photos to share from the last few days

The walk today was beautiful, climbing up out of San Sebastián, the views back to the city and sea were spectacular. I left before anything was open for breakfast so I was hungry by the time I reached Orio, the first option for food at around 11:00.

The remainder of the day was uphill, sometimes fairly steeply so, through beautiful areas along the Atlantic, mostly a rural wine making region.  I arrived in Zurautz, a costal holiday town and found the line for the Albergue had more people waiting than there were beds. Catching little snipets of conversation, I learned that just about everything was “completo”, “finis”. I suppose if willing to spend some money there were places to be had but I have myself firmly in the Pilgrim spirit so I decided to walk on another 6 kilometers to the next town. I do have a Spanish SIM card in my phone so I called ahead and reserved a bed in a private Albergue for 12 Euro. The municipal Albergue are anything from a donitavo (donation) to 5-10 Euro. They are first come, first served. The private ones do accept reservations but are otherwise similar. All vary somewhat in amenities but the basic premise is the same; one or two large rooms with cots, mats or bunks. There are usually a couple of shower rooms, and maybe a washer, wash basin and clothes line. Many of the private ones have wifi and some like the one I’m in tonight provide a simple breakfast for 2-3 Euro. Privacy and modesty are not consistent with life in the Albergues. They open around 4 and you must leave by 8 or 9.

I am glad now that there was no room in Zarautz although I had a moment of panic wondering what I would do. Getaria is a lovely little coastal town with a history of sailing, fishing and whaling. The early 1500’s saw many explorers travel off to the new world. An explorer from this town finished the first circumnavigation after Magellan was killed.

I’m sure the day will come when the exhaustion of the daily exertion will make me wonder of the folly of doing this but so far I am actually feeling good to dig deeply when it feels like I can’t take another step, or just try to be calmly be resourceful  when it looks like I’m lost or without a place to stay.

Despite my best efforts my feet do hurt. I hope they toughen up soon!